TUDOR: Watches and Wonders 2023

At Watches and Wonders this year, TUDOR presented evolutions to their Black Bay line, with new aesthetic combinations, technical updates and an entirely new watch in the form of the Black Bay 54. The Black Bay line was originally conceived as a tribute to the designs that laid the foundation for TUDOR, and this year’s collection honours this while bringing these models firmly into the present day. Meanwhile the TUDOR Royal welcomes two new dial variants, expanding the already impressive range of options offered by this collection. Join us here at Prestons as we explore these new watches.

Black Bay 

The new burgundy bezel Black Bay foreshadows the future of the line, with an upgraded movement and aesthetics. The original Black Bay launched with a burgundy bezel in 2012, received a Manufacture Calibre in 2016, and now sees another evolution with a model that is Master Chronometer-certified by METAS. 

The METAS certification tests precision, resistance to magnetic fields, waterproofness and power reserve to incredibly high standards. The Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U features a variable inertia balance wheel maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with two-point anchoring, which together with a non-magnetic silicon hairspring allows the assembled watch to function within a tolerance range of 5 seconds. The Black Bay brings together this cutting-edge watchmaking technology with design elements inspired by TUDOR’s nearly seven-decade heritage of making robust professional diving watches.  

Black Bay 54 

This all-new Black Bay 54 is the most true-to-form example of TUDOR’s first dive watch, the reference 7922. The 37mm case retains the classic proportions of this model, yet boasts the technical prowess of TUDOR’s time-only Manufacture Calibre MT5400 and a 200m depth rating.

The unidirectional bezel is devoid of any graduated hash marks, harkening back to the early '50s, when SCUBA diving was in its infancy and TUDOR produced a watch for those daring enough to engage with the burgeoning sport. The lollipop design of the seconds hand recalls the look of the original, while a redesigned crown and bezel feature historical proportions with modern ergonomics.

Black Bay 31/36/39/41 

The Black Bay 31/36/39/41 models bring unisex chic to the Black Bay line, with curved cases and a sophisticated aesthetic that departs slightly from the brand’s tool watch aesthetic. These new versions present steel cases in four sizes, all housing Manufacture calibres. The fixed polished bezel frames a dial in blue, anthracite or light Champagne-colour. Each watch is available on a five-link bracelet in 316L steel with the TUDOR ‘T-fit’ rapid adjustment system.  

Black Bay GMT 

The TUDOR Black Bay GMT is renowned for the GMT function, which allows the wearer to track local time alongside two other timezones. The rotatable bezel is instantly recognisable for its burgundy and deep blue colours, nodding both to the rest of the Black Bay line and to the early days of this high-flying style. 

This year, TUDOR reveals an all-new opaline dial to perfectly complement this iconic colour scheme. The dial is not quite white, thanks to a galvanic process by which a matte white-grey finish is applied to the surface. The marker surrounds are darkened to create contrast. The result is a silvery, highly legible dial which evokes the mid-century boom in commercial aviation.  

TUDOR Royal

Finally, TUDOR expands the Royal range with two new dial colours. This collection already offers a wide array of different dial and case options, all of which boast sports-luxury style and first-class technical performance. The new variants offer the classic sunray dial in chocolate brown or salmon. These are both sophisticated and versatile colours, accentuating the chic character of this line.  

TUDOR at Prestons

Here at Prestons, we are proud to partner with TUDOR. Our showrooms in Guildford and Wilmslow offer the perfect environment to explore the new collection with the help of our knowledgeable experts. If you would like to make an appointment, we would invite you to contact us by telephone or via our online contact form.