The Black Bay collection takes its cues from TUDOR’s past. From diving excursions to military expeditions, the watches that inspire this collection are known to thrive in extreme conditions. In the Black Bay GMT these qualities have been brought together with a new movement to create a robust companion for the modern traveller. This watch is available in two versions, each with three strap options. We’ll take a look at both of them below, but first let’s explore their common elements.
The most immediately striking feature of the Black Bay GMT is the bezel. Bidirectional and marked with a 24-hour scale, it’s split into two colours to indicate day and night. In combination with a 24-hour hand, as well as the regular hour, minute and seconds hands, this allows the wearer to track up to three time zones at once. The date is displayed at 3 o’clock, perfectly legible without need of a cyclops lens. The case is 41mm across and waterproof to 200m, a must for underwater adventures and poolside parties.
Digging a little deeper, what really sets this watch apart in this price range is the jumping hour hand. Modern GMT watches generally fall into one of two categories; ‘independent 24 hour’ or ‘local jumping hand’. Of the two, local jumping hand is better at enabling quick time zone changes, making it preferable for the wearer who wants to track local time as they travel.
With the crown set to the first position, the main hour hand can jump backwards or forwards in one hour increments while the rest of the hands keep moving as normal. If the hand passes midnight in either direction, the date will automatically update. Upon disembarking a flight, the wearer can quickly update the Black Bay GMT to local time and carry on with their journey uninterrupted.
Powering this functionality is the Manufacture Calibre MT5652. Designed specifically for this model, the GMT functionality is integrated into the movement, allowing this watch to maintain the same thickness as the standard Black Bay model. A movement of this quality is a rare offering at this price point, especially with the jumping hand functionality. The calibre is of course guaranteed by the extreme tests applied to all TUDOR products to ensure robustness and reliability.
TUDOR offers two versions of the Black Bay GMT; steel, or steel and gold (often known as S&G). The steel model is paired with an aluminium bezel in burgundy and blue. The matt finish gives the colours a classy look and ensures the bezel doesn’t distract from the dial. This watch is offered with a riveted steel bracelet, a ‘Terra di Siena’ brown leather strap, or a signature TUDOR fabric strap with a red stripe down the centre. Aesthetically, this watch will be as comfortable on a mountain hike as it will at a business conference.
The S&G model features gold on the bezel, the hands and other details of the dial. The contrasting steel case grounds the design, keeping it firmly in the realm of a tool watch. Meanwhile, the brown and black bezel harkens back to the brown and cream Rolex GMTs of the 70s and 80s.
Again, there is the choice of a bracelet, fabric or leather strap. The centre links of the bracelet on the S&G are capped in yellow gold, giving the piece a sporty touch. This look is continued in the fabric strap, which features a gold stripe down the middle. Alternatively, you could opt to match the brown on the bezel with a leather strap. In any combination, this is a very handsome watch, a step up in luxury from the steel model without becoming overstated.
The Black Bay GMT is the ultimate travel companion. Equally suited for business trip or vacation, it is at home everywhere. It offers a fantastic movement, brilliant functionality, and a value proposition rarely seen in the world of luxury watches. It’s a great choice for a first watch, and versatile enough to serve as your only watch.
If you’d like to discuss the Black Bay GMT or explore the rest of our TUDOR collection, we would invite you to contact Prestons Wilmslow or Prestons Guildford by telephone, via our online contact form, or by visiting us in-store. One of our specialists will be happy to guide you through any enquiry you may have.