A Timeless Classic; The Patek Philippe Calatrava

The Calatrava collection was first created in 1932 – the year that Patek Philippe was acquired by Jean and Charles Stern. The first model within the Calatrava collection was the reference 96, which was inspired by the Bauhaus school of art and design. The ethos behind Bauhaus designs was to ensure they were simple in nature and for form to follow function. The design of the ref. 96 perfectly embodied this and has since inspired a number of models from within the collection. 

Today, the Calatrava collection is a symbol of Patek Philippe style and the essence of the elegant round wristwatch. In this feature we will explore two of the latest introductions to this collection, reference 6119 and reference 5226G.

In 2021, Patek Philippe introduced reference 6119. The watch was introduced as the successor to the iconic ref. 5119 and the classic ref. 3919. In this latest iteration, the Calatrava is presented with slightly larger and arguably more modern case size at 39mm. The bezel, a clear and distinctive feature of this particular reference, is adorned with a stunning Clous de Paris, also known as hobnail, pattern; the same bezel design as the 5119, mentioned above, and a clear testament to the heritage of this collection and the timeless nature of its references.

The major innovation with this particular model must be the new 30-255 PS movement that is housed inside the case. This manually wound movement features twin barrels aligned in parallel with each other, offering an incredible power reserve of approximately 65-hours. This innovation is displayed through the model’s display caseback; although not unique to this collection, it offers the wearer a perfect view of the functioning movement.

The reference is offered in 18ct white gold, with a vertical satin finished charcoal grey dial, or in 18ct rose gold, with a slivery grained dial, each combining cutting edge technology with classic design – the perfect wristwatch for those perhaps looking for a more modern dress watch or a comfortable, yet contemporary, everyday classic.

The second reference we will explore is the 5226G, introduced this year at Watches and Wonders. This reference, like the reference above, marks another modern interpretation of a truly classic wristwatch.  

For this reference, the Clous de Paris, or guilloched hobnail pattern, decorates the outer of the case or the caseband rather than the bezel. In order for this intricate detail to be added, Patek Philippe have had to design a distinctive case construction which makes the lugs an integral part of the caseback. This decoration adds a contemporary feel to this model, perfectly contrasting the striking and simple smooth bezel and adding to the vintage-style of the textured dial, explored below.

For us, the dial is a signature of this reference, as well as for the more complicated Annual Calendar Travel Time, ref. 5326G, also introduced this year. The dial, which is said to be inspired by the distinctive surface found on old camera cases, features a unique granular texture. Its charcoal colour intensifies and darkens as it reaches the perimeter and is finished with a black gradient minute track as well as beige accents. Each element only adds to the retro feel of this model and the ref. 5326G.

This new introduction is featured with two interchangeable straps: one in beige calfskin with a nubuck finish and the other in black calfskin with an embossed fabric motif and beige topstitching, offering the wearer arguably two unique styles, in one vintage-inspired contemporary reference.

Each of these Calatrava models represents a modern interpretation of the original, ref.96, and acts as a testament to the evolution of Patek Philippe’s aesthetics and style. These references ensure the collection offers the perfect wristwatch for a variety of ages, styles and tastes – for more formal occasions or everyday wear.

If you would like to explore the Calatrava or the entire Patek Philippe collection further, we would invite you to contact Prestons Wilmslow by telephone, our online contact form here or by visiting us in-store and one of our Patek Philippe specialists will be on hand to guide you through any enquiry you may have.